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ashions of the Ages
Brief Costume History
1940s

War broke out in Europe in 1939, the same year the first true artificial fiber, Nylon, was introduced at the World's Fair in New York.  For the duration (1939-1945), fashion veered between exiting innovations like this, and the shortages, price controls and rationing created by war.  Often, shortages directly created the innovations:  Men's suits bought before the war typically came with jacket, vest and two pairs of matching trousers.  During the war this dropped to just a jacket and one pair of trousers, where it has stayed ever since.  Leather and rubber shortages caused shoemakers to experiment with wood and cork soled, stylishly elevated, Platform shoes.

War Production Board guidelines for garment manufacture 1942 War Production Board guidelines for garment manufacture 1942

Women's clothing went through the greatest changes in this era, both due to shortages, and due to large numbers of women engaging in work outside the home during the war. Bias cutting was promptly dropped as a waste of fabric, and "Make Do And Mend", wartime advice centered on sewing old clothes in to new ones. Men's suits were re-cut into women's suits, complete with the tailored details and shoulder padding previously found in the garments. Shoulder pads quickly became stylish in all women's garments, not only suits, and stayed in fashion until 1949. 

1945 pattern  1945 pattern 

"The suit that bought a bond": Woman's suit made from an old man's suit. 1942 "The suit that bought a bond": Woman's suit made from an old man's suit. 1942

Most governments issued either construction guidelines, or rationing to curtail fabric use, yet even in Europe men and women managed ways to stay fashionable during the conflict.  "The Little Black Dress" was a popular method suggested by style magazines:  Having a simple, short (knee length) black dress, which one varied each day and evening with sets of color-matched accessories. Fashion that was not rationed, like hats, and hairstyles, grew creatively elaborate. Women and girls were actively encouraged to wear pants, both for war work and warmth.

1942 1942

Fabric conserving alterations to make small old dresses fit a larger figure 1946 Fabric conserving alterations to make small old dresses fit a larger figure 1946

Men's clothing, when out of uniform, was increasingly casual.  In addition to dropping vests from suits, ties became wildly festive in pattern, color and style.  Aloha Shirts for casual wear came to the mainland with servicemen returning from the Pacific theatre.  Suit wearing increasingly was confined to work in offices, going to church, and formal occasions.

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